Most of you are long-time and attentive fans of Japanese denim. You probably have an impressive collection of jeans already and know your way around all the different denim brands out there. 

There is something special in Japanese denim fabrics that attracts people from all over the world. Yet, every Japanese manufacturer is different. From spinning the yarn, methods of dyeing, various experiments with denim density and texture are a kind of visiting card of authentic brands. For example, you will be able to tell Oni Denim apart from Samurai Jeans, distinguish between TCB and Momotaro. It is the uniqueness of each Japanese brand that is probably the reason why a person who wanted to get just one pair of premium quality jeans eventually becomes the owner of a collection of a dozen (and sometimes several dozens) pairs of jeans.

 

Brand Philosophy and Production

Even among the small local Japanese brands producing unique fabrics and jeans, Graph Zero is outstanding. This brand was created in 2004 in Kojima, i.e. in the heart of the Japanese jeans industry. Most of the industries related to dyeing, weaving and sewing are located here. 

The concept itself, as the name Graph Zero (zero graph) indicates, expresses the desire of the makers to craft their product “from scratch”. They come up with a product idea and, thanks to the vertical production structure of Graph Zero, handle every step of the production themselves: weaving, dyeing, sewing.

All the members of the Graph Zero team already had considerable experience in the production of jeans clothes and were associated with sewing jeans, as well as dyeing and weaving. They say the following about themselves: “We offer production from scratch, including cotton and dyes, which make up the material, and the ideas that make up all these products.”

Thus, Graph Zero’s philosophy is based on the idea of not having to rely on anyone else, writing their own history, instead of following the visions of others. 

Graph Zero Products and Features

Graph Zero have vast experience with weaving and dyeing fabrics and are well connected in the clothing industry.

The company produces small batches of clothing for men and women, including a variety of jeans, pants, jackets, shirts and t-shirts.

The foundation of the Graph Zero collection are timeless five-pocket jeans.

The main weight of most of their denim is 16oz, i.e. the density is slightly higher than average. This density allows you to get a quite versatile and comfortable jeans, at the same time, this fabrics packs a lot of character! 

Graph Zero herringbone twill (Sugi Ayaori) 16 OZ

As mentioned above, Graph Zero pays particular attention to creating denim that truly stands out of the crowd. They are incredibly nuanced, textured and patterned. We can’t recall having seen proprietary fabrics like this before. Graph Zero dare to do something truly different. You can hardly see similar types of denim from other brands.

The most recognizable and most unusual type of denim with the texture of herringbone twill. This material is not typical for the production of jeans. Graph Zero calls this fabric Sugi Ayaori. All the features of this denim will become more nuanced when the jeans are worn in. The weft has a gray tint. Two orange threads are woven into the selvedge ID. We would call this their flagship fabric! 

Graph Zero Hickory twill 16OZ

A very interesting Graph Zero denim imitating the texture of Hickory stripes. This material was used in vintage American work clothes, but was rarely (may we say: never?) used for selvedge denim. When these jeans will be faded, a noticeable difference in the color and texture of of the denim will appear. We guarantee you, breaking these on will be fun! 

Graph Zero classic right hand twill 16OZ

For those, who prefer their denim to be more understated, Graph Zero has something in store too!A beautiful, vintage style right-hand twill (RHT). The weave is slightly looser than usual which makes the jeans comfortable from the start. This is a true classic that will never let you down. 

Graph Zero classic left hand twill 16OZ

Less commonly used in jeans production, the left-handed twill (LHT) makes an appearance in Graph Zero’s line-up too. Noticeable vertical streaking is expected when the jeans are broken in. You might be familiar with the so-called Tate Ochi effect (which you might know from other Japanese brands)

Graph Zero Lightweight Denim 12OZ

Should you be looking for a lightweight option, what about this beauty clocking in at 12OZ, woven from a right-handed twill. Look at all the nep here!!!

Graph Zero Organic Denim 13OZ

These 13oz jeans are made with 100% organic cotton without the use of any chemical components. Usually, jeans made of such denim are used for foreign exhibitions.

For their sewing, Graph Zero uses 100% cotton threads. This allows for an amazing vintage look and beautiful ageing. In addition, cotton threads also shrink and tighten the seams during soaking and washing, giving them a characteristic “tuberosity”, this adds to the authentic look of the jean.

All jeans are made from unsanforised raw denim (kibata), which usually makes the sizing hard because of the massive amount of shrinking. Fear not though, Graph Zero offers a one-wash version of their jeans with most of the shrinkage out of the way already. 

Note: Choose your size carefully! If necessary, please request the actual measurements from shop assistants.

 

Jeans details

Graph Zero’s jeans have many outstanding details. We will try to list some of the basic details featured on most models. 

3mm thick leather patch. Untreated cow leather is used, over time it will beautifully change its color.

Patch in oiled canvas. A very dense and durable fabric. It is a very original design and matieral, rarely used in jeans production.

Donuts button in the style of the 40s

Classic vintage details in the form of hidden copper rivets

Hand-embroidered arch using sashiko technique on a pockets. It is used on some models of their jeans and adds originality and recognizable Japanese aesthetics.

Jeans styles

Graph Zero essentially makes  two main styles - a straight regular fit and a straight slim fit. The first style is called ST,

the second is called SL.

Some Graph Zero Product Examples

We suggest you get to know the rest of  the Graph Zero collection. This is a snapshot of what this brand has to offer. We hope that after reading this post you want to explore the entire collection of this brand more detail 🙂

 

Jeans

GZ-16ST-01OW 16OZ LEFT-WOVEN JEANS STRAIGHT

The classic five-pocket model in the straight regular fit (a homage to the universal 501-style). 16oz, made from left-handed (LHT) twill. We mentioned the features of this type of denim above.

A patch of thick 3 mm raw leather with symbols that characterize the craftsmanship of Graph Zero.

An orange tab is sewn on the back pocket. Donut Buttons are used.

GZ-16ST-01OW 16OZ HERRINGBONE JEANS STRAIGHT

Straight regular fit jeans made from their exclusive herringbone twill fabric (Sugi Ayaori). Details are the same as GZ-16ST-01 16oz Left

GZ-16ST-01OW 16OZ HICKORY JEANS STRAIGHT

Straight regular fit jeans made of denim, the texture imitates Hickory stripes.

GZ-16ST-010 16OZ RIGHT-WOVEN JEANS STRAIGHT

Straight regular fit jeans made of denim with classic right-hand twill. The back pockets and coin pocket are made of herringbone twill denim.

 

 

GZ-16SLST-Z01OW 16OZ NEEDLESS HERRINGBONE ZIP JEANS SLIM STRAIGHT

Jeans from 16OZ Needless Herringbone Twill (with a pronounced striped texture). Patch with the image of a weaving shuttle. Jeans fasten with brass zipper.

 

 

 

 

1917S1ID 13OZ JAPANESE ORGANIC COTTON JEANS STRAIGHT

The jeans are made of 13OZ organic cotton denim. A light shade of indigo imitating the color of jeans of the 70s. Red selvedge ID 

Tops

GZ-EWGL-2911CM ENGINEERED WORK L / S SHIRT

 

A shirt that combines a work shirt with Type II denim jacket. An interesting cut of pockets and pleats near the fastener. Lightweight chambray fabric.

Conclusion 

Graph Zero are an impressive brand with much experience in the denim industry. Their jeans have truly different fabrics and details and their tops rival any other Japanese brand. We are happy to carry them on Denimio... right in time for Christmas 😉 

Go get some!